By Murli Menon
I have just returned after a memorable trip to Tamil Nadu, the ancient kingdom of the Cholas. The visit lasted a few weeks, but its memory will last a lifetime. In Tamil Nadu, I visited many ancient architectural wonders, including the magnificent Shiva temple at Thiruvanaikaval on the banks of the Kaveri River, near Tiruchirapalli. This ancient treasure offers a great experience to Indian
families who want to spend a blissful day away from the vagaries of stressful life.
At Ekambareshwar, Lord Shiva is represented as the water element in a lingam that floats on the waters of Kaveri, which reaches the lingam through an underground spring. A 500-year-old neem tree is located outside the temple. Devotees are expected to wake up between 2 am and 4 am to take a dip in the Kaveri and walk to the temple for the morning prayers that start at 6 am.
The second precinct of the temple. (Photo courtesy: Wikimedia Commons)
There are five temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, and each represents the deity as one primordial element, namely Jambukeswarar (water) at Thiruvanaikaval, Natarajar (sky) at Chidambaram, Arunachaleswara (fire) at Thiruvannamalai, Kalahasti Nathar (wind) at Srikalahasti, in addition to Ekambareshwar. These temples were constructed 1400 years ago and are living proof of the ancient wisdom of our ancestors.
The Thiruvanaikaval temple has several hundred stone sculptures that are over 10 feet tall. There are hundreds of pillars in the inner courtyard, which stretch from one end of the temple to the other.
The magnificent stone temples, dedicated to Lord Shiva, as fire, water, earth, wind, and sky, stretch from Srikalahasti to Ekambareshwar to Chidambaram to Thiruvanamalai. Most of the sculptures are in devotion to the Hindu Gods, Vishnu, Rama, Shiva, and Ganesha, in giant monolith slabs of rock. In the 10th century, these rocks were transported hundreds of kilometres across such rocky terrain.
Watching the reflection of the golden sunlight over the temples of Thiruvanaikaval is an unforgettable experience. Out of the hundreds of sculptures, a few that stand out include the giant stone sculpture of Nandi outside the shrine. The gopuram is equally majestic and can be seen from miles afar, looking white as snow against the clear blue skies.
The Apsaras (celestial nymphs) and dwarapalaka (guardians of the temple) statues are fine examples of intricate architecture. There are several giant statues inside the temple, sculpted from monoliths transported from hundreds of kilometres away a thousand years ago.
A sculpture of a nymph inside the temple. (Photo courtesy of the author)
Wandering through the giant sculptures at Thiruvanaikaval is a testament to ancient Vedic wisdom. As one explores the temples, one can experience poetry etched in stone. Delicate sculptures of plants, animals, gods, goddesses, nymphs, and serpents decorate the walls of temples in endless rows. The temple has colorful, giant figurines of animals, birds, and trees representing cosmic unity.
Each level of this temple is profusely adorned with carved friezes and deities. Sculptures of deities in recessed and projecting niches cover all sides of the temple. The lowest level has many niches with rudimentary images of Lord Ganesh in the centre. The images of Sheshashayi Vishnu in the central niches, on the upper levels, are more elaborate.
If you really want to explore Thiruvanaikaval, reserve a full day for exploring the temple. Every sculpture here is a living tribute to the ancient wisdom of Vedic India. The language of stone indeed defeats the language of man. Also, on the upper levels of the temple are impressive images of Laxmi-Narayana, Uma-Mahesh, Brahma-Brahmi, and Kuber and Indra, with their respective consorts.
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How to get there The nearest international airport to reach Thiruvanaikaval is at Tiruchirappalli. There are several options for Indian tourists to get to Thiruvanaikaval from Tiruchirappalli. By bus, this 7 km trip takes 15 minutes. There are several local trains available to Tiruchirappalli from Chennai. The Thiruvanaikaval temple is 7 km away from Tiruchirappalli Railway Station. Where to stay? Star Lodge at Thiruvanaikaval is an ideal place to stay, which is a value-for-money proposition. One can pay Rs. 200/- for a single bed with common bathrooms. Rooms are tiny and can comfortably accommodate a single person, and the bathrooms are clean. Where to eat? Many restaurants serving pure vegetarian South Indian cuisine dot Kanchipuram. Freshly steamed idlis, served with coconut chutney, are a local dish. Fresh fruits, including mangoes, tender coconuts, bananas, and jackfruits, are available at the local market. Precautions Thiruvanaikaval is a religious place, and there are several pilgrim shelters, where one can stay the night for free. Do not pay touts or middlemen who will accost you at the bus and railway stations. Ask for the way to Hindu Dharamshala or Gujarati Satram, both of which offer comfortable rooms with attached bathrooms for free (you can make a voluntary donation if you wish) and are located a short walk away from the temple. Avoid high-profile hotels, including those run by the tourism department, as they are exorbitantly priced during the rainy season, a low season for tourism. Do not hire two-wheelers or bicycles to move around Ekambareshwar, as they often lose your identity cards, which the hiring shops retain as security. The temple is within walking distance of most guest houses and pilgrimage homes. Avoid the modern ashrams of “so-called” gurus, as theft is common here, besides being forced to shell out exorbitant donations for overcrowded dormitories with untidy bathrooms. |
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(Murli Menon is the author of ZeNLP books and conducts storytelling workshops based on his works on eschatology. He can be reached at [email protected])
